Issue 86: Allison Bornstein Decodes Joan Didion's timeless style

On personal style as self-knowledge and biography

Welcome to The Joan Didion Group Project - a month of reading dedicated to one of America's most influential and celebrated writers. I am going to be joined by many of my Substack friends — you can see what people are planning to do here — and, if you are interested, you are more than welcome to join! It’s not too late. This is a reading challenge, not a writing challenge. So please don’t let fear of attention dissuade you from participation. If you’ve never read Didion but always wondered what the fuss is all about, this is your time. And if, like me, you consider yourself a fan but wonder if the love is real and lasting… well, this is for you too. If you do end up writing about your experience on Substack, please DM me so that I can amplify your work! Some of the posts will be up as early as next week! 

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As we all gather our books and start reading, I thought it would be fun to open up the month with a conversation about the visual language of Joan Didion’s personal style. Didion’s look is so recognizable and so appealing in its specificity. I knew I wanted to do a deep-dive on it with a REAL PRO and it felt natural to reach out to

Allison Bornstein

, a stylist whose approach to fashion borders on the philosophical. No wonder that so many of us book-people are so drawn to her.

For the uninitiated, Allison Borstein is a mega-star in the world of personal styling. She has cultivated a massive following among those who seek to understand style as an extension of self. Bornstein's Three Words method, invites a deeper introspection… a distillation of identity through clothing. Simple, yet profound. There's such a thoughtfulness to her approach. She speaks of personal style as a form of self-knowledge. Not trend-chasing, but truth-seeking. In her world, a closet is not just storage. It's an archive of self. A wardrobe, carefully curated, becomes a biography.

This perspective resonates deeply with Didion's own relationship to style—her iconic packing list, her sunglasses, the way she leaned against that Corvette in that dress. For both women, style is substance, a form of self-authorship. When Allison agreed to this conversation, I knew we would speak not of hemlines and silhouettes, but of the narratives we construct through what we wear. Our dialogue, which follows, explores style as identity, as a silent language Didion understood intuitively and Bornstein translates for us with grace.

What unfolds is less about fashion and more about the intimate dialogue between a woman and her clothes—a topic I believe Didion herself would have appreciated. An exploration of style as narrative, as identity. As Didion might have seen it.

Joan Didion's style has captivated so many. What is the essence of her appeal?

There's such a practicality and functionality to Didion's style that really resonates with people. Her iconic packing list is a perfect example - it feels attainable and makes sense. When you see her in her outfits, you think, Of course you're wearing that. It's very utilitarian.

But what's fascinating is that there's also a softness to her style. I always think of that photo where she has the scarf tied - there's a textural softness there that contrasts beautifully with her hair and the overall functionality of her look. The scarf isn't necessarily functional, but it adds something special to an otherwise practical outfit.

If you were to apply your Three Word Method to Joan Didion's iconic look, what words would you choose? My vote is for minimal, intellectual, and cool. 

I'd go with soft, minimal, and intellectual. Minimal definitely fits - there's not a lot going on, which ties into the functionality we talked about. Intellectual makes sense given who she is and what she does. 

But I'd replace cool with soft. There's a softness to her as a woman and to what she wears. She often plays with tonal cream and white, which adds to this soft quality. Even when she's wearing something utilitarian, like a big jacket, the addition of a soft element like a scarf brings that softness to the look, which makes it feel distinctively hers.

Didion's style seems to transcend trends and time. How do you think she achieves this, and how can others channel that same timeless quality?

I think it's all about authenticity. Whether she's wearing a more boho-style dress or a printed batik skirt, it feels so genuine to her. It's like she's wearing the clothes, not the other way around. To achieve this for ourselves, it's about defining our style and understanding what we like, but also being open to trying new things. It's about centering the person in the style. If you know yourself - your likes, your personality - you can carry that through different trends and times.

The key is to take the time to know yourself and cultivate your own taste, rather than chasing trends. Spend time figuring out what you like. If it's your taste, it's good taste.

Didion's style balances functionality with a powerful aesthetic. How does this resonate with your philosophy on style?

Didion's style really embodies the balance between functionality and style. As a writer, she represents the original work from home lifestyle in a way. Her style reflects dressing for oneself, for comfort, and for functionality because she's not necessarily going anywhere - it's for her. 

It's different from, say, an actress of that era who might be dressing more for an audience. Didion's style is about dressing for herself and her work, which aligns perfectly with the idea of balancing practicality and joy in personal style.

For Didion enthusiasts looking to incorporate elements of her style, what pieces or styling tips would you suggest?

While no one should try to dress exactly like someone else - everyone should dress like themselves - there are some elements of Didion's style that can be incorporated:

1. Soft, nice-feeling materials. This is crucial to her look.

2. Functional pieces like a sweater dress, or a knit skirt and sweater.

3. Tonal dressing, especially in creams and whites.

4. A beautiful scarf to add softness to a more utilitarian outfit.

5. Sunglasses are a must - they're such an iconic part of her look.

But perhaps the most interesting and valuable exercise would be to create your own version of Didion's famous packing list. This list is iconic and emblematic of her functional yet thoughtful approach to style. I actually did this exercise once for a trip and shared it on social media.

Allison’s own Packing List, inspired by Joan Didion’s

The idea isn't to copy Didion's list item for item, but to think about your own essentials. What are the things you must bring on a trip? This exercise forces you to think about what's truly important in your wardrobe. What are your go-to pieces? What can you not live without? It's a great way to define your personal style and understand your needs.

I'd be really intrigued to see what people would put on their packing lists. It's not just about the clothes, but about understanding yourself and your style on a deeper level. That's the true essence of timeless style - knowing yourself and dressing accordingly, just as Didion did.

Inspired by Allison AND by Joan Didion, here is my very own Packing List:

To Pack and Wear:

• 1 pair dark jeans

• 1 pair patterned trousers

• 1 black turtleneck

• socks

• hightop Vans + black oxfords

• 2 pairs dangly earrings

bag with: toothpaste / toothbrush, rose water, face oil, sunscreen, concealer, lipstick, mascara, deo, perfume, magnesium, ibuprofen

To carry:

• 1 pullover sweater

• Laptop

• Book

• Jurnal

• Water bottle

Thank you so much, Allison! I absolutely loved this conversation! For more of Allison’s brilliant work be sure to check out her out elsewhere on: Substack, Instagram, TikTok and her website.

Questions for you:

• Do you agree that minimal, intellectual and soft are the best three words to describe Joan Didion’s style?

• If you were to apply Allison’s Three Word Method to your own personal style, what three words would you choose and why?

• Didion's iconic packing list is as a reflection of her practical yet thoughtful approach to style. What would be on your essential packing list, and what does it reveal about you?